Hello sewing friends! Tamar here from Tamar Hope Designs! I can’t believe that it’s already December, and this is our last sewing 101 post of the year! We have learned so much this year, from maintaining an even seam allowance, to sewing with knits, to gathering, and installing zippers. The last topic for this year is buttons and buttonholes! There’s nothing as frustrating as making a beautiful garment only to mess up one of the buttonholes. It does take some practice to make consistently beautiful buttonholes, but I have a few tips and tricks for you to make the process easier and more consistent.
I will be using Primrose for this buttonhole tutorial. It’s such a lovely nightgown and makes a perfect gift if you’re looking for a last minute idea!
The first thing you must do is stabilize the buttonhole area. I recommend always ironing a 1” strip of medium weight interfacing to the backside of the main fabric where the buttonholes go.
If you have a buttonhole foot, put your button in the back part, so your foot can calculate the length of the buttonhole.
Select the buttonhole stitch. If you have an antique machine, you will likely have a 4-step buttonhole. In this case, you will select the first step, sew, then the second step, sew, and so on. If you have a buttonhole foot, you will need to select the 1-step buttonhole stitch.
Next, always stitch a practice buttonhole to make sure your settings are correct for your fabric. For dresses and nightgowns I like to use a stitch length of .5 and a stitch width of 4 or 5. To prevent the buttonhole foot from catching on your fabric, place a piece of tissue paper between your fabric and the foot. This makes for smooth, easy stitching and consistent results.
When you are finished, the tissue paper tears away easily.
When you are happy with your test buttonhole, measure the length of the buttonhole.
Mark the buttonhole placement on your garment with a removable marker. This will ensure even and straight buttonhole placement.
To cut the buttonholes open, place pins along the ends of the buttonhole to prevent cutting through the stitches at the ends.
Use a seam ripper or small scissors to cut open the buttonholes being careful not to cut any stitches. Add some fray check to the stitches to make sure the buttonhole doesn’t unravel.
Congratulations! You have now made some gorgeous buttonholes! The last step is sewing on those buttons. Overlap your button placket the amount called for in the pattern and clip in place. Mark your button placement at the center of each buttonhole.
If you choose to use buttons with traditional holes, you can use a button foot to attach them! (If you choose to use pearl buttons or covered buttons, you will need to hand-sew them in place.) To use a button foot, set your stitch length to 0 (or drop the feed dogs), and set your stitch width to the width required for the needle to pierce the fabric through the left hole. Stitch a few straight stitches. Then switch to the zigzag. Stitch 7 or 8 zigzag stitches before switching back to the straight stitch. Stitch a few straight stitches to finish off the button.
If your button has 4 holes, place your garment under the foot at an angle so you can stitch sweet little x’s.
It looks much more professional if your buttons are sewn on with x’s.
And there you have it! All the tips and tricks needed to stitch beautiful buttonholes for your nightgown, dress, or whatever it is you are stitching up this week!
You can also make Primrose with darling ruffles.
AND if you’re looking for a sweet gift idea, pair Primrose with Arbor for a sweet sibling set that’s sure to impress!
I’m so excited to give this set to my little nieces!
Happy Stitching!
-Tamar