SPRUCE COAT One Coat; A World of Possibilities

The Spruce coat is EPIC.  But, instead of having 100 of them, you can follow this tutorial on how to style ONE COAT many different ways to achieve the look you desire.  

I started this coat with one thought...Sometimes you feel like a fur; sometimes you don’t...let us explore how to make a REMOVABLE trim on your Spruce hood.  

Materials:

Main fabric from Spruce Coat

Fur or other desired embellishment fabric

½” flat magnets OR buttons OR snaps

NOTE: Do not use the magnets with a computerized machine as it can cause damage to the machine.

Hood modification to allow for removable trims

1. Cut all of your coat pieces according to the pattern.
2. Sew your hood main and hood lining as shown in the Spruce tutorial (around the outer curve)
3. Measure the hood where the face hole is 

4. Cut 4 strips of fabric 2 ” x the length of the measurement from #3 (1 main, 1 lining and 2 in a quilting cotton - these last two will not be seen and you can use whatever you have on hand)

5. Take your hood in main fabric and stack your 2 strips (main and scrap) in the following order...main hood, main fabric strip on the outside (right sides together), scrap trip on outside, aligning the raw edges.

6. Stitch the edge with ⅜” seam allowance.  Repeat steps 5 and 6 with the hood lining.
7. Trim your SA and clip curves
8. Turn the fabric strip so that the scrap piece is touching the wrong side of the hood pieces.  PRESS the seams (main and lining)
9. On the main hood, measure 1” up from the raw bottom edges of the hood (neckline)
   1. If using magnets, sew channels just wide enough to slide your magnet in. (make sure it fits before continuing
   2. If using buttons of snaps, sew or place your closure here (button or male end of snap)

NOTE: make sure you are only sewing through the strips and NOT into the MAIN HOOD

10. Repeat step 9 with the exact center of the hood
11. Find the midpoint on both sides of the hood and repeat step 9 at this point (you will now have 5 closures on the main side of the hood
12. Grab your lining hood and repeat steps 9-11.
    1. If using magnets, make sure you are using the opposite side so that it is attracted to the magnet on the main
    2. If using buttons, sew buttonholes
    3. If using snaps, attach the female snap closure

NOTE: make sure you are only sewing through the strips and NOT into the LINING HOOD

13. Place the lining hood inside the main hood (wrong sides together) and align the front seams (the ones with the strips) - clip this seam together.
    1. If using magnets, make sure they attract to each other and align properly.
    2. If using buttons, put them through the buttholes on the lining.
    3. If using snaps, snap the main to the lining.

14. Pull the main hood piece forward, exposing the strips.

15. Turn your hood so that the right side of the lining fabric is facing up.
16. Mark 1” from the outer edge (seam around the face) all the way around the hood.
17. Sew the strips to the lining fabric along this line.
18. Fold the main hood back over the lining.
19. Continue constructing the Spruce Coat according to the instructions.

Sewing the trim

1. Measure the hood along the face opening.
2. Cut a 2” strip of main fabric by the measurement in step 1 (+⅔” for seam allowance).
3. Cut a 4-6” strip by the measurement in step 1 (+ ⅔” seam allowance) of Fur (or whatever other trim you’re feeling).
4. Fold the main fabric strip in half horizontally with RST ad sew the two short sides. 

5. Flip the piece Right sides out and press well.

6. Adding Closures to trim (main fabric strip):
   1. If using magnets, add channels to the strip to align with the magnets that are in your hood.
   2. If using buttons, sew buttonholes into your fabric strip, aligning with hood.
   3. If using snaps, sew female snap closures to align with snaps on hood.
7. Repeat step 4 with the trim piece.
8. Sandwich the main fabric strip inside the trim pieces, aligning the raw edges together.

9. Mark a 2” section in the middle of your trim (this is marking the section you will leave open to flip your trim).
10. Sew your trim piece starting at the middle mark to each side, this will assure that you leave the opening.
11. Turn your piece so the right side is out.
12. Hand sew your opening shut.

13. Apply to hood as desired by sliding the fabric piece between the hood pocket, snapping or buttoning into place.