Hello all my sewing friends!!! It’s Tamar from Tamar Hope Designs here to talk about fabric cutting! I have been sewing since I was 8, but it really wasn’t until I started pattern testing that I really understood grainline and how to properly cut pattern pieces. And it is so important! Properly cut pattern pieces are often the difference between a garment that looks “handmade” and a garment that looks professionally made. So, let me lay it out for you.
First, it is important to understand the terms.
Salvage: The salvage is the finished edge of the fabric that has the fabric information on it.
Grainline: The grainline always runs parallel to the salvage.
Off-Grain: The edge that is perpendicular to the salvage is off-grain or against the grain.
Bias: The bias runs at a 45 degree angle from the grainline
Your woven pattern piece will have a “grainline.” This line needs to be perfectly parallel to the salvage for best results. Measure the distance from the grainline to the salvage both at the top of the line and the bottom of the line to make sure it is parallel.
Your knit pattern pieces will have a “stretch” line. This line needs to be perpendicular to the salvage. You can see the lines of grain going up and down the fabric. Rib knit is an extreme example of this. But every knit will have those lines. Some are more subtle than others. Keep those grain lines running perpendicular with the stretch line on your pattern pieces.
The bias of a fabric can be used when you need a woven fabric to stretch or drape. Make sure the grainline is at a 45 degree angle with the salvage for a bias cut. Most cutting mats have diagonal lines to help line up a bias cut piece. A bias cut skirt is cut on the bias (diagonal) giving it a lovely drape. Bias tape is cut on the bias giving it a nice stretch to smoothly go around corners. Men’s ties are cut on the bias to ensure that they lay nicely.
Cutting on the bias can also be used for effect. Just be aware that it will stretch slightly when sewing with bias cut fabric. I cut the yoke of this Alder on the bias for effect, but cut the lining with the grainline. This ensured that the yoke didn’t lose its shape when sewing.
I also cut the pocket on the bias for effect. With pockets, make sure to press well without moving the iron. If you move the iron when pressing, the fabric can stretch out of shape.
Cutting is such an important step! And it’s completely normal for you to spend way more time cutting than you would like. Use pattern weights or pins to make sure your fabric doesn’t shift when you cut! And take care to cut precisely. A well cut pattern piece will make your sewing so much easier and your results so much more professional!
I hope these few little tips can help you achieve even better results and understand exactly how to cut your fabric!
Happy Cutting!
-Tamar
