Hello sewing friends!! It’s Tamar from Tamar Hope Designs! I hope that you've been enjoying this sewing 101 series!!! I'm excited to be back on the blog to talk about zippers!!! Zippers can be frightening, but I'm here to tell you that you don't need to be scared of them! The only thing that can make zippers challenging is if they end up shifting while sewing. So, my biggest tip for zippers is to carefully baste either with a basting stitch or with wash away wonder tape.
Types of Zippers
Before you sew a zipper, though, you need to buy a zipper, and all the options can be overwhelming. I’ll break it down for you, so you can confidently buy the right zipper for your project.
There are basically four types of zippers.
nylon coil (left), invisible (center), plastic molded (right), and metal (not pictured, but it looks just like a plastic molded zipper except the teeth are metal instead of plastic).
Nylon Coil Zippers
Nylon coil zippers are great for garments and bags. They are more flexible than molded zippers or metal zippers. This makes them perfect for rounded bags or knit garments.
Invisible Zippers
Invisible zippers are used for fancy dresses, pants, and skirts, when you don’t want the zipper to be visible.
Molded Plastic Zippers
Molded plastic zippers are a bit more durable than nylon coil zippers, but less flexible. They are perfect for knit jackets, zip-up sweatshirts, and pants.
Metal Zippers
Metal zippers are the most durable type of zipper and are therefore good for garments and bags that will be subject to lots of wear and tear. They are perfect for pants, jackets, and bags. Take care when sewing a metal zipper. Always hand crank when you get close to the teeth. Slowly wiggle the needle between the teeth. If your needle hits a metal zipper tooth it will likely break.
Molded and metal zippers can be either closed-end or open-end.
Open-end zippers (pictured on the right) are used for garments that need to be completely opened such as jackets and sweatshirts. Closed-end zippers are used for everything else.
Zipper Sizes
The most common sizes of zippers are #5 and #3.
The numbers refer to the width of the teeth. A #3 zipper has teeth that are 3mm wide and a #5 has teeth that are 5mm wide. Pay attention to your pattern. Some patterns specify zipper size because the zipper tape of a #3 zipper will only be 1” wide while the zipper tape of a #5 zipper is 1.25” wide. In general, I like #5 zippers for bags and pants and #3 zippers for other garments. #3 zippers are a little more flexible making them more suitable for garments and lightweight fabrics. #5 zippers are stronger making them more suitable for bags, pants, and heavier fabrics.
Sometimes it may be difficult to find the right length of zipper. In that case, you can easily shorten a nylon coil closed ended zipper by measuring the length needed, and sewing a zipper stopper at the desired length.
You can choose to hand sew the stopper, or use a zigzag stitch with a stitch length of 0 and a stitch width of 5. Then simply cut off the excess zipper tape. (Note: zippers are measured from the top zipper stoppers to the bottom zipper stopper. So, a 9 inch zipper will actually be longer than 9 inches if you include the zipper tape above and below the stoppers).
If you need to shorten an open ended zipper, you will need to remove the teeth from the top of the zipper. This can be done with either a metal or a molded plastic zipper. Just use a pliers and wiggle each tooth until it comes off of the zipper tape.
Zipper Tape by the Yard
I love buying zipper tape by the yard for bag making. There are so many amazing colors to choose from and you can customize the zipper pulls.
Zipper tape by the yard is often #5. But it can also be #4.5 or #3. Pay attention to your pattern. Most bag patterns take #5 zipper tape.
If you get your zipper tape by the yard, you will need to attach your zipper pulls after you cut your desired length. To attach the zipper pull, separate the end of the zipper. Cut about ¼ inch off the end of one side. (Note: If you are right handed, cut the right side. If you are left handed, cut the left side).
Thread the longer side through the rounded side of the zipper pull until it reaches the flat back side of the pull.
Then thread the shorter side through the rounded side of the zipper pull about halfway through the pull.
Grab the cut ends and wiggle the zipper pull down.
Zipper Sewing
Once you have picked out your zipper, the fun begins! A great place to dive into sewing zippers is the Chicory Bag. AND you can get it during the month of July for 20% off with code ZIPPERS20. To attach a zipper to any simple zipper pouch like Chicory, start by basting your zipper right sides together with the top of your outer fabric. Baste with a ¼ inch seam allowance.
Remember the key to sewing straight zippers is always baste!
Next sandwich your zipper between the outer and the liner of your bag. The outer and the liner should be right sides together with the zipper between. Sew at ⅜ inch for a #5 zipper and ¼ inch for a #3 zipper.
Iron the zipper away from the fabric and topstitch.
Repeat with the other side of the zipper. The advantage of using zipper tape by the yard is the ability to separate the zipper after sewing it to both sides of the bag. This makes topstitching the second side a breeze.
After topstitching, simply attach your zipper pull. After I attach the zipper pull, I like to press the open end of the zipper coil together with my fingers. This ensures that the end of the zipper stays together when the side seams are sewn.
Don’t forget to enter to win a free pattern by posting a picture of your chicory bags on instagram and/or in the Sunflower Seams Facebook group during the month of July! Use the hashtag #learnwithsunflowerseams.
If you are looking for a fun summer project to make with our Chicory Bag I have a great one for you, learn how to Transform Chicory into the Ultimate Kids' Travel Bag with Fun Toy Pockets.
Happy Sewing!
-Tamar