Hello Sewing Friends! It’s Tamar from Tamar Hope Designs, and it’s time for the next sewing 101 post! Today’s topic is hemming knits! I get lots of questions about how to hem knits. All the options can get overwhelming and confusing when you are starting to sew with knits. For this post, I am going to break things down for you and give you the basic tips and tricks to get you hemming knits with ease in no time.
You don’t really need any special equipment to hem knits, but a few tools will make the job so much easier and more professional looking. A twin needle is my favorite way to hem knits, a walking foot is a huge help in making those hems lay nice and flat, and some sort of stabilizer is a game changer.
Stabilizers
There are a few different options for stabilizers. It’s easier to get a nice looking hem if your knit is stabilized in some way. Stability will help prevent your fabric from getting pushed down through the sewing machine plate. It will also help prevent it from getting stretched, twisted, and wavy. My favorite way to stabilize a knit hem is Soft Stretch Hem Tape. I will show you how to use it in this tutorial, since it’s my favorite method. You can also use wash away wonder tape, or spray starch. Also, simply serging the edges before hemming can add enough stability to get good results.
Stitches
Since knit fabric stretches, you want to use a stitch that will stretch with the fabric. If your fabric stretches and your stitch doesn’t, your seams will pop. This is especially important for seams within the body of a garment. The hem doesn’t need to stretch much, but you still want your seam to stretch a little bit in case the hem is stretched. There are several options that work well for hemming knits. I’ll go through the most common stitch options in order from the strongest stitches with the most stretch, down to the stitch with the least stretch.
The option with the most stretch and strength is the zigzag stitch. Use a stitch width of 5-7 and a stitch length of 3. This stitch is not my favorite simply because it doesn’t look as professional. However, if you need stretch and strength, this is the one to use. It would be a great choice for swimwear, as hems on swimwear definitely need to be able to stretch.
The next option is a straight stitch with a twin needle. This is my favorite hemming method because it looks so professional. I do use this stitch with my swimwear, and I find that it holds up pretty well. I will occasionally need to fix a hem that has popped, but for the most part it works well, especially if you use wooly nylon in the bobbin or stretch thread in both the bobbin and the spool. For knit garments, the twin needle is perfect! When using the twin needle, use a long stitch length of 4 and a straight stitch. A walking foot is also extremely helpful to keep your hem nice and flat. For practical tips on using a twin needle, go back and reference my post on sewing knits.
The next option is a narrow zigzag. Use a stitch width of .5 and a stitch length of 3. This stitch has the strength of a zigzag stitch, but it’s not as stretchy as a wide zigzag stitch. It is a solid choice for hemming and topstitching. If you like the finish of a single row of stitches, this is a great option. It almost looks like a simple straight stitch, but it has that extra strength and a little extra stretch from the zigzag.
The least stretchy and least strong is the long straight stitch. If you use a long stitch of 4, it will have slightly more stretch than a straight stitch with a smaller stitch length. If you really like the look of a simple straight stitch, you can use it. However, I would not advise using this on kids clothing, since the stitches will pop more easily.
Hemming
The edges of knit fabric don’t fray, so you don’t have to finish the edges. If you have a serger, serging the edges is a great way to add some stability and a professional looking finish.
However, if you don’t have a serger, you can just leave the edges raw. If you don’t like the raw edge, you can fold the hem up twice (as you would with woven fabric.) For most knit hems, I like to use a hem allowance of 1 inch. I find that a hem allowance smaller than 1 inch tends to flip out when washed and worn.
To create a nice flat 1 inch hem, iron your hem tape along the edge.
Peal off the paper backing.
Fold the hem over 1 inch to the backside and iron in place.
Then you just have to choose your favorite stitch, grab your walking foot, and sew that hem in place.
I like to use my left hand to feel the edge of the fabric as I sew. This allows me to keep the stitches close to the edge of the fabric.
You want to keep the hem stitches as close to the edge as possible. If your stitches are far away from the edge, it won’t be as clean and the hem can tend to flip out. If your hem gets wavy, give it a good press with lots of steam.
If you are using thin or slippery knits like this bamboo jersey that I used for a Rowan, make sure to use hem tape, and a walking foot!
Circle Hems
The first thing you need to know about circle skirts is that they need to hang for at least a day before you hem them. The horizontal edge of the fabric will stretch differently than the vertical edge. This can cause parts of the hem to get longer as they hang. This is the case with both knit and woven material. Always let those circle skirts hang.
Here is an example of a circle skirt that I was in a hurry to finish and didn’t have time to let it hang. After a while, the sides became longer than the center and the hem is no longer even. Don’t make that mistake!
Hems on circle skirts and flounce sleeves provide an extra challenge. The reason for the extra challenge is that the edge of the fabric will be slightly longer than the hem length, so it can be tricky to get a nice smooth hem without waves and puckers. There are a few tricks that you can use to make it easier to get a nice smooth and even hem. First, you can serge along the edge allowing the serger to gather the fabric ever so slightly.
If you don’t have a serger, you can try using a zigzag stitch instead. You’ll want the inside of the zigzag to follow a ¼” hem allowance. This can be done by using a stitch width of 5 and stitching with a ⅛” seam allowance.
Next, use hem tape! When applying the hem tape, it will have puckers in it. Don’t worry about the hem tape staying flat, just make sure your fabric stays flat.
Remove the paper backing on the hem tape.
Iron the hem in place. Use the width of your overlocking stitch or zigzag stitch to measure how much to fold over.
Fold over a second time and press.
Stitch on the right side as close as possible to the hem fold.
If your stitch is farther away from the hem fold, the hem will flip out. The back should look like this.
Unfortunately, a walking foot does not usually work with a tiny hem like this one because only one of the feed dogs on the walking foot will be able to stay in contact with the fabric. If your walking foot doesn’t work for a tiny hem, use a regular foot. Make sure you don’t pull the fabric, just let the machine feed the fabric. Then be ready to press your hem with lots of steam to get the waves out.
Hems can be tricky, but with a few tips and a little practice, you will be creating beautiful, professional looking hems in no time. It’s helpful for me to remember that a good looking hem takes time (especially if it’s a circle skirt). It’s tempting to rush through a hem because you’re almost done with the garment. All you have to do is hem, and that shouldn’t take long, right? Allow plenty of time to finish your garment with a beautiful hem, and you will be thankful that you took the extra time to finish it right.
How about a promo code to help you practice hemming!?! Grab Jasper for circle skirt hem practice and Rowan for straight hems with thin or slippery knits. Pick them up for 20% off during the month of September with code KNITS101!
And if you’re looking for gorgeous fabric, check out Becca Plymale’s Art Gallery Collection called “Land of Enchantment”. This dress is made from Yucca Blossoms. I am absolutely in love with this fabric. It’s so soft, summery, and feminine. I’m honestly obsessed with the entire collection though! You should go take a peek!
Happy Hemming!!!
-Tamar