Hello Sewing Friends! Tamar here from Tamar Hope Designs. Today I’m here to talk about bands and bindings! Bands and Bindings was the one thing I struggled with most when I first started sewing knit fabric. I’m going to give you the tips I wish I had when I started sewing knits, so hopefully your learning curve can be much much shorter. And you can sew knit garments that you are truly proud of.
First of all, did you know that bands and bindings are interchangeable? If your pattern has a band, but you want a binding, you can just change the width of the pattern piece and sew a binding instead of a band. So, the first thing we need to explore is the dimensions needed for bands and bindings.
Width
Neckband - 2 inches
Single Fold Binding - 1 inch (for a serger), 1 ⅛ inch (for a regular sewing machine)
Double Fold Binding - 1.5 inches
Length
I like to make the length of the band 85% of the length of the finished neckline or arm hole. You can make it 80% the length of the finished neckline if your fabric is super stretchy like rib knit. Remember to add the seam allowance to your piece! For example if your neckline measures 23 inches, make your neckband 23 x .85 = 19 ½ + ¾ (two seam allowances) = 20 ¼
Sewing
There are a few things to keep in mind when sewing any neckband or binding. First, sew the band or binding right sides together into a loop and find and mark the quarter points.
Next, quarter the neckline. Tip: the shoulder seams are not usually the quarter points.
Then attach the band or binding to the neckline matching the quarter points.
When attaching the band or binding it is very important to maintain an even seam allowance otherwise your band will vary in width. It is also very important that you DO NOT STRETCH THE NECKLINE! Only stretch the band to match the neckline. I like to sew with the band on top, so I can make sure the seam allowance stays even on the band. With the presser foot down, I stretch the band and neckline. Then I back off the stretch till the neckline is loose. Then I stitch that section. I repeat with each section of the band till I’m back around to the starting point.
Now that you have the tips, let’s look at how each band and binding method is constructed.
Single Fold Bindings
For the single fold binding, pin the binding to the neckline right sides together, matching quarter points. Sew to attach using a stretch stitch or a serger.
From the wrong side, press the binding up and fold the raw edge over the seam allowance. Pin/Clip.
Sew to attach using a twin needle, coverstitch, or long straight stitch.
This type of binding provides a nice flat finish.
Double Fold Bindings
For the double fold binding, pin/clip the binding to the neckline matching the quarter points. For this type of binding, you will pin/clip the right side of the binding to the wrong side of the neckline.
Press the binding up. Fold the raw edge to meet the finished edge.
Fold over again to cover the seam allowance.
Sew to attach using a twin needle, coverstitch, or long straight stitch.
This type of binding also provides a nice finish. This binding has a little more weight to it.
I love using bindings for a more casual, “sporty” finish. I finished the neckline of this Elowen with a binding and also finished the arm holes with bindings instead of sleeves.
Bands
For a band, simply fold the band in half wrong sides together and match the raw edge to the neckline edge. Clip/pin with right sides together matching quarter points.
Sew to attach using a stretch stitch or a serger. Press the seam allowance toward the shirt and topstitch it in place using a twin needle, coverstitch, or long straight stitch.
If any of your topstitching for either your bands or your bindings gets wavy, simply press it really well with lots of steam.
And there you have it, bindings and bands made easy. Now go sew all the comfy knit dresses and tops!
For this outfit I used Elowen with bindings instead of sleeves, and a shortened Marigold to add a cozy layer for chilly springs.
Happy sewing!
-Tama